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Pork tenderloin at Annette in Aurora.
Photo by Robin Intemann, The Gazette
Paris-Brest at Annette in Aurora.
Photo by Robin Intemann, The Gazette
Pork tenderloin at Annette in Aurora.
Annette is an unpretentious name for an upscale restaurant but it needs no further embellishments. Instead, those are reserved for the food: fresh, innovative and well-prepared. The Annette tagline is “Scratch to Table,” a variation of the farm-to-table theme so prevalent today.
Annette is located in Aurora’s Stanley Marketplace, a one-time airplane hangar repurposed into a popular spot with trendy shops, restaurants and bars. The restaurants span cuisine and price options, with Annette at the upper end on both.
Photo by Robin Intemann, The Gazette
It’s worth noting that Annette has received four James Beard Award nominations. This year, Caroline Glover, chef and co-owner , won for best chef in the Mountain Region category.
At first glance, the prices are off-putting, but shared plates are the emphasis here. The only one that made us think twice, before deciding to splurge, was the deviled egg. At $4 each, it would have been disappointing to eat only half even though we knew it was downright silly to pay so much. They’re topped with chopped chives and a pea-sized drop of romesco. The reddish-orange sauce not only provides a sharp contrast to the brilliant yellow and white, the red pepper flavor takes this basic comfort food to another level. Perhaps not a $4 tier, though.
Our servers (one was in training) offered suggestions, although not in as much detail as I would have liked. I like hearing descriptions of dishes. Fortunately, the table runner who brought each item gave us the particulars about the ingredients and preparations.
Our panzanella ($18) featured crusty bread, sliced cucumbers, red onions and a combination of sliced cherry and sun gold tomatoes topped with pieces of shredded basil. It was dressed with grilled cucumber vinaigrette. It’s worth noting here that most of these ingredients were harvested from the mini-greenhouses near the restaurant’s patio. (In the winter, they’re used for outdoor dining.) The bite-size pieces of bread, from Bakery Four in Denver, absorb the fresh garden flavors.
Each course arrives separately, allowing for a leisurely paced meal. The house spaghetti ($18) with sun gold tomatoes, basil, chile flakes and bottarga was one dish I would have been happy not to share. In keeping with the spirit of the meal, I did my best to make the portions equal.
Again, the table runner came to the rescue with her description of bottarga: dried and aged mullet roe. It adds a sharp salty flavor to balance with the fresh tomato sauce.
The pork tenderloin ($35) is wood-fired, which imbues a subtle smokiness. This was a large serving of sliced pork on a bed of tetra squash, with romesco, pickled red peppers and basil. The meat was almost fork tender and juicy. The squash is a new variety, with a firm texture and mild flavor.
We knew about the Paris-Brest ($13). This delicate, doughnut-shaped dessert is made with choux pastry filled with fresh apricot pieces and praline cream. The pastry is light and airy. The filling is slightly nutty, rich and completely decadent.
Photo by Robin Intemann, The Gazette
Paris-Brest at Annette in Aurora.
Reservations are recommended. Be sure to allow time to walk around the Stanley Marketplace after your meal simply to move around after an exceptional meal.
Description: Upscale, “scratch to table” restaurant.
Contact: 720-710-9975; annettescratchtotable.com
Hours: 4:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Patio dining.
Favorite dishes: Panzanella, house spaghetti, Paris-Brest.
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.